PERFECT FOR WINTER and Had to Do it -- Bourdain's Beef
Many of you have probably accused the show of being a knock off of "No Reservations" with Anthony Bourdain and I don't blame you one bit. Hell, he and just a small handful of others are the main inspirations for the show so accuse it all you want - I'll send you a postcard. But in the spirit of paying homage to people I aspire to be (or maybe careers I aspire to have) I would like to present to you my attempt at making Tony Bourdain's Beef Bourguignon -- and I did good.
The show is partly about food, yes, but I don't want you to think that this will end up airing on the food network. I know I just did a story about cheese so you might be fooded out but I had to do this one. I mean... look at it! This is not Dinty Moore (although DM is very good). This is a staple in the French recipe book and it is something that should be tried by everyone in this chilly winter season. Beef Bourguignon or Beef Burgundy is a slow cooked French stew made with red wine (burgundy usaully). The wine is the key here and it makes the dish very rich but not too heavy.
Bourdain's recipe is simple. Other similar recipes tend to be twice as elaborate but the purity in his minimal approach makes the dish a little more bad ass. I tried to maintain the original as much as I could but I've got some old habits that had to sneak in. A beautiful cut and salted pot roast browned in oil and butter and then taken away to make room for the browning of onion and garlic. Hows that for a start? His recipe didn't call for button mushrooms but I threw some in there because I do the proverbial do. All this and more is covered with the wine/liquid and set to cook on low for 2 - 4 hours. When you lift that lid off the bubbling pot it is just like something you'd see in a film that's set in the Dark Ages - you know, that medieval stew you always wanted to try. And the best thing is, just like Duck Confit, it get's better as it sits in the fridge. I actually make mine the day before I serve it for just this reason. Something about the stew settling in and really getting to know itself for an extra 24 hours just brings out another level of flavor.
On the side? - a regular boiled or baked potato. Keeping it simple I put a boring russet potato in the microwave and zapped it at 4 minutes per side and it tasted awesome. This added with the the fact that you can prepare the meal a day earlier makes it the perfect dinner party delight. You could also put the stew over some egg noodles like a Stroganoff (tame your mind!). The dish goes wonderfully with..... yea, you got it, red wine. I tried mine with a lovely bottle of MGM Pinot Noir 2009 that you can find at Trader Joe's in the French section (fancy!) for under $10!
So, if you're ready to make a nice cold winter night's meal (or a cold winter week's meal) I think we know what needs to be done. Big thanks to Bourdain for his show, my show, the inspiration, and the food. Better yet to come...
--J.O'Ly
Anthony Bourdain's Bourguignon *(Amended by J.O'Ly)*
Ingredients:
- 2 pounds beef shoulder or neck, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- *1/4 cup butter*
- 4 onions, thinly sliced
- 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 1 cup red Burgundy *(or other dry red wine)*
- 6 carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces
- *1 box of small whole mushrooms (any kind)*
- 1 clove garlic
- 1 bouquet garni (a tied bundle of herbs, usually thyme, bay and parsley)
- A little chopped flat-leaf parsley
Directions:
Stage One: Season the meat with salt and pepper. In a Dutch oven, heat the oil over high heat until it is almost smoking. Add the meat in batches *with bits of all the butter* -- NOT ALL AT ONCE! -- and sear on all sides until it is well browned (not gray). You dump too much meat in the pot at the same time and you'll overcrowd it; cool the thing down and you won't get good color. Sear the meat a little at a time, removing it and setting it aside as it finishes. *Make sure you DON'T OVER COOK THE MEAT otherwise it'll get chewy.* When all the meat is a nice, dark brown color and has been set aside, add the onions to the pot. Lower the heat to medium high until the onions are soft and golden brown (about 10 minutes). *Add the shrooms and cook for 3 minutes.* Sprinkle the flour over them. Continue to cook for about 4 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, then add the red wine. Naturally, you want to scrape up all that really good fond from the bottom of the pot with your wooden spoon. Bring the wine to a boil.
Stage Two: Return the meat to the pot and add the carrots, garlic and bouquet garni. Add just enough water (and two big spoons of demi-glace, if you have it *or use beef stock instead of water*) so that the liquid covers the meat by one-third -- meaning you want a ratio of 3 parts liquid to 2 parts meat. This is a stew, so you want plenty of liquid even after it cooks down and reduces. Bring to a boil, reduce to a gentle simmer, and let cook for about 2 hours, or until the meat is tender (break-apart-with-a-fork tender).
You should pay attention to the dish, meaning to check it every 15 to 20 minutes, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot to make sure the meat is not sticking or, God forbid, scorching. You should also skim off any foam or scum or oil collecting on the surface, using a large spoon or ladle. When done, remove and discard the bouquet garni, *season! with salt to perfected taste (I can't believe he forgot to mention this),* add the chopped parsley to the pot, and serve.
